By Naomi Edge
London, one of the fashion capitals of the world, played host to the finest Filipino fashion talent on Saturday, 18 February.
Filipinos turned up for avant-garde PamPinay at their first-ever London Fashion Week, an honour most designers can only dream about. The fashion brand is made up of Pamela Gotangco, a visual artist and designer based in Zurich, and Christian Belaro, a graphic designer who lives in London.
Their catwalk collection, named “Angel-Pinay Punk,” was created in tribute to Vivienne Westwood, a British fashion designer who passed away last year, the style incorporating punk subculture into the traditional Filipino terno.
“We admire her style, advocacy in protecting the environment and encouraging personal style,” said Pamela in an interview after the show.
From newbies to the fashion industry, who started a brand to help Filipino seamstresses in the Philippines, to a stage in one of the biggest fashion weeks in the world, it was sure to be a night to remember for PamPinay.
Punk style with a social purpose
Second to last in the show and with anticipation running high, PamPinay were announced with an impressive introduction from the compere, who reflected the crowd’s excitement and pride, mentioning their work in the Philippines and with Philippine embassies and consulates around the world.
“Unique, edgy, original, exciting, of international standards!” was how Nifleda Huab-Wessling, formerly in banking and consulting and now a mumpreneur, described the designs. She even shared with us a photo of her favourite design in the collection.
Marrying tradition and punk style, PamPinay used refashioned or upcycled denim and other fabrics while highlighting the works of Filipino indigenous artisans. The resulting designs were both fashion-forward and yet wearable, stylish yet sensible.
The collection introduced the intricate weaving of Marawi weavers from Sinag Tala Foundation who help internally displaced persons (IDPs) with a special focus on women and children. Embroidery and beading were made by T’boli members of the Cooperative of Women in Health and Development in Lake Sebu in the southern Philippines.
Traditional handwoven designs called “binakol,” “kantarines” and “inabel” from loom weavers in Abra, Mountain Province and the Ilocos region were also part of the collection.
The designs featured many native Filipino flowers, like the sampaguita, which shows off the outstanding natural beauty of the Philippines, including inspiration from the flower farms on top of the Atok mountain in Benguet.
Another stand out piece was a full length quilted coat, which is “(a) result of our mission in creating positive impact in sustainable fashion.” It was made from leftover handwoven binakol, kantarines and original PamPinay prints.
Bayanihan spirit in action
Hosted by the House of iKons at the Leonard’s Hotel, in St Paul’s, the atmosphere in the busy reception space was electric. Pamela and Christian were surrounded by great support from the Filipino community, so much so that their fans sold out all of the VIP seats at the show!
“We never expected the huge turnout from the Filipino community in London but we are so grateful. I guess this is another testament of bayanihan spirit that is inherently Filipino,” said Pamela.
Among the turnout were show sponsors Luigi Crespo of Ilaw Ltd which offers online Filipino language classes, and Crystal Dias of Dias Solicitors. Some friends of the designers also came all the way from the USA and parts of Europe.
Before the catwalk show, there was a chance to look around international stalls set up by the other designers and artists, including hand-painted rice paddy hats from Vietnam and travel guides to the Philippines.
Pampinay, of course, had its own stand, which showcased its own graphic prints on tops and jackets you could purchase on the night. The PamPinay original graffiti fabric speaks of women empowerment and no to domestic violence against women. All of the purchases will go towards building the brand, making more pieces, and supporting Filipino weavers and seamstresses.
Marie Tanabalan, owner of Kaizen Ryu Karate, bought a graphic, flowing jacket she wore during the show. “I was drawn to the mix of modern and abstract design, as well as the cut. It can be thrown easily over any outfit,” she said.
Consul General Rhenita Rodriguez of the Philippine Embassy said she was very proud of the designers and their creations. Also seen at the event were Dr Cristina Juan of the School of Oriental and African Studies, Rowena Romulo of Romulo Café & Restaurant and Councillor Myla Arceno of Martins Wood.
The fashion show featured several international designers, including Pampina Paris from Thailand and another Filipino designer, Jay Layson. Jay’s designs sparkled in pink, with formal looks for teens, which took traditional influences, like terno sleeves and added them to modern, show-stopping looks, which could help inspire the next generation to Filipino fashion styles.
What’s next for PamPinay?
If you missed out on PamPinay in London this time, or want to carry on supporting them, you can see them on 26 February at the Milan Fashion Week, hosted by HOME.
“We will also focus on making our business sustainable. We will only be able to create more pieces if it is financially viable for us. So we are really grateful for all those who purchased some items,” explained Pamela.
They will be back in London on 17 June for the 35th anniversary celebration of Filipino Women’s Association. “We are grateful for these organisations who are collaborating with us in making our endeavours financially sustainable. In terms of design, we have so much more in store for everyone,” she said.
Overall the evening was a fantastic success, with Pamela and Christian receiving a standing ovation from the crowd at the end of the show. Their designs truly portrayed the multifaceted aspect of fashion in the Philippines, from the natural beauty of the florals to the powerful activism of the graphic prints, all interspersed with the sensible, resilient denim and artistic hand-woven fabrics.
Fashion is a language that can be transported all over the world to enable people to wear their culture with pride, and PamPinay certainly shouted at London Fashion Week that Filipino designers are the ones to watch.
About the author
Working in digital marketing, Naomi is a Filipino-British who is passionate about design and writing. She has previously worked with the British Council, Birmingham Arts Council and Wilderness Festival on a variety of fundraising and awareness events, including the “Birmingham Weekender” and “The Janus Project.” You can follower her on Twitter @nomderland
