As Gordon Ramsay calls Filipino food ‘The sleeping beauty of Asia,’ one London restaurant grows from family catering to cultural hub.
By Julienne Raboca
On an unassuming street in Holloway, where artists’ studios blend with residential blocks, D’Cocina signals the growing presence of Filipino cuisine in this corner of London. Visiting one Sunday evening, I weave past football fans spilling out from the nearby Emirates Stadium after an Arsenal game and step into a warmly lit space.
High ceilings give the restaurant an airy feel, while dark green walls and gold metal detailing on the lights add a modern touch. A small grocery section in one corner catches my eye — shelves lined with Filipino pantry staples, from Mama Sita’s adobo and sinigang sauce mix to ChocNut, a childhood peanutty, powdery candy wrapped in paper foil.
The attention to detail extends beyond the dining room. In the bathroom, Rituals hand soap and cream offer a thoughtful touch. A staircase leads to an upper level, where floor-to-ceiling glass panels reveal views of the public square lined with neighbouring establishments — a bubble tea shop is around the corner, and across kitchen that hosts social cooking classes.
From family catering to cultural hub
What began as MM Catering Services in 2011, named after the founders’ children, has evolved into an ambitious venture contributing to London’s Filipino food landscape.
Head chef and patriarch David Miguel brought his culinary expertise from Zambales, Philippines, where he owned a restaurant before moving to the UK in 2009. His wife Meriam arrived earlier, in 2000, as a sole-charge nanny, later reuniting the family in London.
Their son, Dave, transitioned from IT to CEO, stepping into the family business during the pandemic when his parents considered closing their then-thriving catering operation. At its peak, MM Catering managed up to ten events per day. “We had to sell assets during the pandemic,” Dave recalls. “Now, we operate at a more focused pace, handling five events per week, mostly on weekends.”
Celebrating Filipino cuisine
The menu showcases the depth of Filipino cuisine. Crowd favorites include inasal (Filipino-style grilled chicken) and liempo (grilled pork belly). The kare-kare, a rich peanut-based stew, stays true to traditional flavours. “We didn’t want to change too much in presentation or flavor so it’s recognisable to Filipinos,” Dave explains. “We’re still keeping it standard.”
We thought the sisig, a sizzling pork dish, could have been crunchier and benefit from a lighter oil. Meanwhile the palabok, a noodle dish described The New York Times as chicken ragù with shrimp, had room for more sourness, smokiness in the fish, and crispness in the chicharon (salted and deep fried pork rind).
The ube cake stands out among the desserts, presented with crumbled Sky Flakes crackers and a tableside pour of ube sauce, accompanied by delicate lemon macaroons. The restaurant shows promise in adapting Filipino classics for London diners, though some dishes are still being refined.
Building community through food
D’Cocina’s influence extends beyond its menu. A partnership with Rhejim, a Filipino store in Helsden, expands their grocery offerings, bridging the gap between restaurant dining and home cooking. “We want to grow with the Filipino community,” says Grace, the manager who transitioned from an office job to her first role in hospitality.
The restaurant’s profile received a significant boost when Valerie ‘Bangs’ Garcia, a prominent figure in Filipino entertainment, joined the team. “She has been invited to invest in other Filipino restaurants but she has chosen the D’Cocina because our vision and values align,” Dave notes.
The space has also become a cultural hub, hosting everything from intimate weddings to fashion shows. Recently, it transformed into a runway for Maud London’s bridal collection launch, highlighting its role in London’s Filipino cultural scene.
Expansion with a community-first approach
Community investment drives D’Cocina’s expansion strategy. Their Birmingham location, set to open in March 2025, emerged from consistent catering requests in the area. “We offered people the chance to invest and become shareholders,” Dave explains. Manchester and Reading are next, with Bangs Garcia planning to oversee her branch.
D Cocina’s success lies in its blend of authenticity and community spirit. “It’s not just us; it’s also the community,” Dave emphasises. This collaborative spirit extends to their dessert menu, which features items from various Filipino suppliers, such as the ube cake drizzled with ube coconut syrup. A purple yam native to the Philippines, ube has a naturally vibrant hue and a subtly sweet, almost nutty flavour. Unlike taro or purple sweet potato, which are often mistaken for it, ube has a soft, creamy texture that makes it a staple in Filipino desserts, from cakes and jams to ice cream.
And then there’s the special halo-halo, available only from June to August. A famous Filipino dessert, halo-halo consists of crushed ice and milk mixed with an array of ingredients, including ube halaya (ube jam), kamote (sweet potato), sweetened beans, sago (chewy tapioca pearls), banana, pinipig (toasted young rice for added crunch), and leche flan (a rich caramel custard).
Some customers travel up to two hours to dine at D Cocina, drawn by its authentic flavours and community atmosphere. They get “positive feedback,” Dave notes, though he admits they are still refining their menu after just four months of operation.
D’Cocina’s approach to growth, rooted in community investment and collaboration, suggests a new model for restaurant expansion. Their approach marks a shift in the community’s culinary landscape, where Filipino restaurants have traditionally operated independently. As Gordon Ramsay recently called Filipino cuisine “the sleeping beauty of Asia,” D’Cocina is helping awaken it in the heart of London.
D’Cocina is open Monday and Wednesday through Friday from 5 PM to 10 PM, Saturdays from noon to 10 PM, and Sundays from noon to 8 PM. Closed on Tuesdays. Reservations are recommended for weekend dining and special events. Their address: Unit 14 Studios Hornsey St, London N7 8EG
About the author
Julienne Carlos Raboca is a London-based journalist with over a decade of international experience in digital marketing, content management, and communications. After 10 years in Hong Kong, she is now working as a commodities reporter at Fastmarkets, having completed an MA in Journalism, Media and Globalisation as a European Commission scholar at Aarhus University and City, University of London.
